onsdag 19 oktober 2016

80 days of joy !

 Over the boarder execution to Knutstorp
 Lorentz trying out Whalefish
One more project in the works...

To sum up the last 80 days ain´t easy, Lorentz came smoking hot from a tripp to Rocklands. And was super psyched. The weather in the beginning was more then ideal, But spirit was high. During the visit we have been working on a new guidebook for the area and Lorentz is i charge of that project. The task is to get a new one out Maj 2017. There have been somewhere like 50 new boulder put up during this time and especially Vargblocken and Slingsö have grown in to be a really good area of it´s own. A lot of changes have been made. It´s super nice to have some one to throw the ball at and get konstruktive feedback... This is one of the super annoying things about being alone in the development of an area. And i have taken another path when i put up new problems letting other try and have their opinion on the grading matter. It´s super funny and the chances of getting it right is bigger. 

Time flies by and today Lorentz made the tripp home and for new adventures, leaving Västervik in soggy conditions. I´m sure time will fly and he is soon back for more, we have really been finding a lot of new stuff and only two days before the leav we did find some new good problems. 

This have been an really nice autumn and a super funny one, hanging out with this energy pack is draining, not only because of climbing hard. Good laughs can be really tiering and we have had one or two :) ...   
Autumn in vastervik 2016 from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

onsdag 12 oktober 2016

More boulders hidden in the forests of the south !

"91`til infinity" 

Yesterday Lorentz brushed and put up Two nice problems at a new found boulder close to Roffanssvampställe. Had the pleasure to get one in the bag today "91`til infinity". Had an really good flash burn sliding of in the end and managed an wobble ascent on my second go :) climbs super well and having seen a movie really helped out. At the same roof starting from the left is a cool line, actually one of the best I've climbed this summer/autumn. This one did not give up easy and its tricky and powerful at the same time... The problem name is Elementary :) 

onsdag 5 oktober 2016

Västervik south gets more problems !

 Way of the Wolf Slingsö Fa
Kilian climbing an super nice Fa at Slingsö 

Today the pack went to Slings, Kilian did find a new really nice problem there yesterday. After a few tries Kilian finished the problem that on the wright up don't have a name. The Karma like problem probably weights in at 8A but lets wait and se what name and grade Kilian suggests. Later on i made yet another Fa of the problem to the right of this one. This one is weird and tolls like Knee pads where used on the Fa. Tricky powerful movement on big pinches starting in a roof with some kind of high top out :) i decided on the name Way of the Wolf and repeaters can tell witch grade it should have ;) or i might drop one for the new guidebook ;)

 Later Lorentz and i went to Roffanssvampställe and had and walk around, to our surprise we did find a huge area 5 min of Walk from Roffans. The amount of rock here seams huge and it has the best quality... Happy
the new wall found in the evening got two new problems 6/10

söndag 2 oktober 2016

Morning send !

Rised up early this morning to get good conditions for the Jord Sds at Kashmirsborg. This payed of and i managed an send of this classy line. Happy with this one ... :) 

fredag 30 september 2016

Send temps and stormy weather :)

Finally got nice conditions and some time to get out :) Kilian Fischuber and Anna Stöhr on tour in the area makes for good motivation and inspiration. Kilian climbed Frost and now the spell is broken times two on this one, my metod might be morpho but...;) Later they got the tour on some of the new stuff at Vargblocken and around Blankaholm trying some projects and repeating problems like Sin king and Fade to black... 

tisdag 27 september 2016

Frost and sendtember temps !

Today Lorentz climbed Frost at tuna blocket, also i got the opportunity to try a bit more on Superfrost. At tuna you really need to be early since the sun are in at around 15. later on i showed Lorentz Tallsjö and love boat captain a dyno/dyno problem of high quality. this area is really accessible and close to tuna.  

måndag 26 september 2016

New stuff and old problems !

 Jake on Kashmir
 Vertigo gamla vo
Lorentz on Rebel to the grave

This week have been packed with work, still managed an session at Kasmirsborg and a evening session on Gamla vo. Both locations are not the most visited... On my list these are high, Gamla vo have some good ones.